Primitive Reserve

I stumbled across Rochelle Cheri’s company, Primitive Reserve, through the Instagram spiral- I saw some brass spoons she had made, clicked through to her site, and then fell in love. Rochelle focuses on building functionally beautiful items made of repurposed materials – everything she makes is designed, sourced, and produced by Rochelle in LA. Rochelle’s background and commitment to her work is inspiring, but what I find the most incredible is her commitment to learning – which she shares with her followers and fans on Instagram and on her blog. She’s always trying something new and tweaking and perfecting – and you can see her work benefit from that as you follow along.

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HOW DID YOU GET STARTED?:

In college I was a science and premed major – I joined the theater department and picked up a drill – we were required to build our sets. The shop guys taught us and then we had to build the sets on our own. Through the theater design program, I learned design discipline. I loved making things for people to see.

I studied film production design – but wasn’t connecting with the work or fulfilled. I wanted to build something that people could build into their life and home and use daily. So, I left my corporate art director job to start Primitive Reserve 1.5 years ago.

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WHAT INSPIRES YOU?

My studio partner’s collection of Fine Woodworking magazine – he has issues from the 1970s! There are no women featured in the magazine. It can be hard to be a woman in a man’s industry but I’m determined.
Metal working – I didn’t start working with metal until last year. It’s out of my comfort zone but so fun!
Great metal workers – like Calderone. Ceramics – Ben Medansky, who used to work in this building – Ceramics are the opposite of woodwork.
I find a lot of inspiration in other art forms – outside of my medium.

WHAT GETS YOU THROUGH THE DAY? THROUGH THE WEEK?

Learning something new and trying to incorporate that into my product or blog. When I learn something new, I get everything else I have to do done quickly so that I can work on whatever it is that I’m learning.

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WHERE DO YOU ESCAPE?

Lake Arrowhead. I love to travel outside of LA and see something new and fresh. I love to hike amongst the trees. I used to surf a lot. I love spending time doing anything new or spending time with my friends and my nieces – it gives me a break from the stressful business stuff and gives me great outside perspective.

WHO DO YOU DESIGN FOR?

When I first started, I was designing for myself. I was constantly trying to replicate a natural home environment – a warm, cabin like feeling in the city. I wanted to recreate the feeling of Lake Arrowhead without using literal, rustic pieces.

Now I design for men and women who are near my age and can appreciate what makes these items special, who want to stay ahead of the trends.

WHAT’S NEXT?

I want to do even more metal work, and mix metals – I love the contrast of aluminum and steel and black metals.

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Thanks, Rochelle, for taking the time to show me your space and chat!
[First & last image via Primitive Reserve. Studio images by TAE]

Follow Primitive Reserve:

Maison du Soir

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So – the dirty secret of working from home (at least my dirty secret!) is that it’s very easy to spend a lot of time in your pajamas. As someone who has always been an advocate of dressing the part, I knew better – but when I was working from my couch, my laziness won out, and I’d spend all day in my workout clothes – if I was lucky – or my pajamas. But – the days that I left the house in the morning – and thus got dressed – were always my best, so the proof was there – dressing like a responsible, productive human being made me act like one.

Courtney Kates created Maison du Soir on the same concept – sleep is arguably the most important thing we can do for our health – and while we sleep we dream and build out our ideas. But most of us sleep in things we’d never be caught dead leaving the house in. We don’t respect our sleep, even though we know it’s incredibly important.

I’ve invested in my bed and bedding, knowing that we spend 30% of our day in bed. But until the last year or so, my pajama drawer was filled with holey, stained, mismatched tees and shorts – many from high school! Every night I had to go through the entire drawer to find something to sleep in, and I never liked anything I found. We make so many important decisions in a day, what we wear to sleep should not be one of them. I ruthlessly attacked my dresser, and now I only have a few items that I love to wear – and I sleep so much better.

My favorites – without question – are my Maison du Soir pieces – particularly the items from Courtney’s newest collection – which, if you are braver than I am, work just as well as separates during the day (out in the real world, not just on your couch!). Read on for an interview with Courtney on the inspiration behind this amazing collection and what she’s learned over the last year! (to learn more about Courtney and MDS, read our first interview here!)

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WHAT INSPIRED THE NEW PRINTS?

The constellation print was inspired by a vintage map of the stars. Every season I have a mellow, easy print and a crazier, more fun print.  The brighter print this season was the multi colored floral and I love how it’s grounded back to black.

WHAT’S YOUR FAVORITE PIECE IN THE COLLECTION?

Oh such a tough question…it’s like asking which child is your favorite!!  I love the Begonia dress…it seems to embody the brand values in one style….it can be worn as sleepwear or daywear.  It’s flattering for different body types and simply makes you feel beautiful when wearing it.

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I LOVE YOUR LOOKBOOK CONCEPT – TELL ME MORE ABOUT IT!

The concept of the lookbook/Spring 14 photoshoot was inspired by Sleeping Beauty and was an attempt to evoke a bit of whimsy and fantasy.  Our first photoshoot introduced the Maison Du Soir woman and the second (Spring) was what happens in her dreams.  Eugenia Kuzmina, our beautiful model was given direction to imagine as if she was dreaming and all these colorful butterflies and adorable animals were drawn to her beauty.  Eugenia is fantastic, one of the hardest working and nicest models I have ever worked with.  For photography and concept, I worked with Scott Chebegia.  I can’t tell you how much I enjoy working with Scott.  He is hilarious which always makes for a fun day but he has the ability to take my concepts to the next level…he makes my vision come to life but also brings new ideas to the table. Scott is insanely talented and just simply a wonderful person.

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WHAT DID YOU LEARN AND INCORPORATE FROM SEASON ONE?

I learned a lot about fit and construction from the first season.  Even though this has been my background for over 10 years, I’ve learned that even with all the knowledge and all the resources , it still takes a season or two to figure out what will make everyone happy.  The first season’s fabric had stretch which made it very difficult to sew. I reduced the stretch this season to keep my costs from going up.  The first season also had a European fit and was more petite…this season, I adjusted the blocks a bit.  We still aren’t perfect but striving to get there. We have a lot of new stuff in the works….new fabrications, more price tiers….I’m looking forward to trying new things and continuing to bringing women comfortable and stylish product to sleep in.  No more ugly jammies!

Thanks, Courtney! Follow Maison du Soir:

The Podolls

the-podolls-burlingameI’ve always been obsessed with a story and meaning behind an item or a brand – that’s essentially why I started TAE – but as I interview more makers and designers, I’m starting to become even more interested with the way they combine their business into their lives – the full circle implications of what they do and how they do it. Because if you are working to build an ethical, responsible business, it doesn’t make sense to let your work consume you – we all know that’s not sustainable, but in this case, it is in direct opposition with the ultimate goal.

Josh & Lauren Podoll are my new shining example of partners – in work and in life – who are building a conscious life and business. Alexandra and I visited with them at their store in Burlingame a few months ago and I am so impressed by what they have built. The Podolls is a carefully (gorgeously!) handcrafted apparel line with a flagship lifestyle concept store in Burlingame.

Josh & Lauren met over 10 years ago in California – Lauren was a retail buyer and Josh was an abstract artist and painter who sold a collection of tee shirts to Lauren’s store. They started dating and working together concurrently – moving from vintage patchwork and screen printed tee shirts sold all over the the world to a high end label that they presented at fashion week. Over time, they saw an opportunity to connect their lifestyle and their work and, in 2008, launched The Podolls, focusing on everyday staples made with great materials and interesting details. Since then, they have launched a kids line, podots, to manage scrap waste from the women’s line, and opened their flagship store.

The gorgeous store allows Josh & Lauren to share their overall vision for the brand- they can make special products, such as leather jackets, and sell them without wholesale markup, and they can support their friend’s brands and brands with a likeminded ethos. There is strict criteria for what is carried in the store – as explained on each item’s hangtang – but other than that, they don’t call it out – while shopping, you just think you are in a beautiful, impeccably curated boutique.

Read on for a little question and answer session with The Podolls that proved to me that Josh and Lauren are living the dream – amazing style, surfing everyday, an awesome little kid, and a business that takes an immense amount of hard work but complements and evolves their lifestyle. And on top of that – they are incredibly generous, and are giving TAE readers a discount. Happy Monday!

the-podolls-kids-clothingWHAT INSPIRES YOU?

L: Textiles every season – sometimes we make our own for the collection. The lifestyles of the women I know – how will they wear our clothes and what do they want them to be? We want our brand identity to take a backseat to the clothes working for the people who wear them.

J: Textiles – you see a fabric and you think, “What does that want to be?” – you can’t force it. Contemporary art. Historical art figures. Living in San Francisco.

WHAT ARE YOUR STYLE ESSENTIALS?

L: A Goyard tote – everyday. Diamond studs. Boots year round. Our wing blouse in all of the fabrics. RGB nail polish. bkr water bottles. Shawn Burke pouches in a Podolls print. Clare V. Leopard Pouches. A great leather jacket.

J: Engineered Garments jacket. Converse. Raleigh & Imogene + Willie Denim. A short, cropped hair cut. Westward Leaning Sunglasses. Fairends Baseball Caps.

the-podolls-made-in-americaWHAT GETS YOU THROUGH THE DAY? THROUGH THE WEEK?

L & J: Blue Bottle Espresso. Our son, Dashiell – who is also why we need so much caffeine.

L: Yoga

J: Surfing – every morning.

WHERE DO YOU ESCAPE?

J: The Ocean. Whether or not it’s a good day for surfing, you are still in the ocean…with dolphins. You get 100 yards out and and it’s wild and free and amazing.

L: Being in nature and away from this material world we live in. Stay-cations. Discovering something new – like a new neighborhood restaurant.

the-podolls-studioWHY DO YOU MANUFACTURE IN THE USA?

It is so satisfying to be able to provide jobs and keep people in business. We love to support our local economy and fellow artisans. We appreciate the ability to oversee our manufacturing and quality. Also, the relationships we’ve made are the best part of what we do – there is a human side of manufacturing, and we believe that is translated into what you wear.

WHAT EXCITES YOU?

The store – it still feels really new. Some exclusive products – including leather jackets! – that we have coming in just for the store. The collection we are currently designing. The physical interpretation of our ideas as our samples come in – it feels like Christmas.

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The Podolls have recently launched their new e-commerce site, and in celebration, they are giving TAE readers 15% off the entire site through the end of April! TROUBLE!!! Use code TAE 15 and stock up for spring! Tomorrow I’ll be sharing my favorites from the site… get them while you can! Thank you, Josh & Lauren!!!

Follow along for more fun:

Digby & Iona

I discovered Digby and Iona a few years ago at Catbird. Maker Aaron Ruff creates incredibly gorgeous, unique pieces of jewelry that are unlike anything I’ve ever seen. I was thrilled to get a chance to learn more about Aaron and his collection…

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WHAT INSPIRES YOU?

History, nature, and random scraps of trash.

WHAT MADE YOU START YOUR LINE?

After working as a carpenter, then woodworker, I wanted to try my hand at a new craft.

WHAT IS THE INSPIRATION BEHIND YOUR LINE?

History, classic literature, and the drive to make heirloom quality jewelry.

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WHAT DRIVES YOU?

The almost psychotic need to out do myself.

WHAT IS NEXT?

I want to continue on the same trajectory by expanding my craft, and workign on my high end lines. Maybe even open a brick and mortar store in the near future.

WHERE DO YOU DESIGN?

Everywhere, but most successfully over a few drinks.

WHERE ARE YOU MOST INSPIRED?

When traveling.

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WHERE DO YOU MAKE YOUR COLLECTION?

My studio is in Cobble Hill Brooklyn in the old elevator shaft of a warehouse building.

WHERE DO YOU LIKE TO SHOP?

Flea markets.

WHY DO YOU MAKE YOUR COLLECTION?

In order to keep up with the constant overflow of ideas.

WHY IS AMERICAN MADE IMPORTANT TO YOU?

Local manufacturing and being able to interact face to face with manufacturers.

http://www.kirnazabete.com/designers/anndra-neen/fno-cage-mini-clutch

Photos via Digby and Iona. Follow along: